ANANDA IN THE HIMALAYAS:

BLISS ABOUNDS AT INDIA’S UNIQUE HIMALAYAN SPA

March 2006



The Sanskrit word ananda means “bliss”. Bliss zooms past ‘merry’ and catapults light-years beyond ‘happy’.  Bliss penetrates your core and permeates your five senses. It embeds transformation into the very root of your being.

By definition, a luxury destination spa called “Bliss” situated in a mountain range sacred to millions - the Garhwal Himalayas are called “DevBhoomi” or “Abode of the Gods” - is obliged to be unique. Condé Nast Traveler (US) readers acclaimed it just that by lauding it “World’s Best Overseas Spa: 2005.”

Ananda in the Himalayas is located two hours from Dehradun, the capital of Uttaranchal state. The road passes through three distinct wildlife sanctuaries. But today that trio is merged under a single name, Rajaji National Park.

Once past Jolly Grant Airport, some twenty miles more, a side road ascends towards a 3,000 feet apex. Hairpin turns polarize the emotions between breathtaking exhalations and fearful inhalations. Then the Viceregal Palace, home of the Maharaja of Tehri-Garhwal, majestically moves into view. Beyond it the undulating buildings of Ananda in the Himalayas snuggly nestle amidst the tranquil landscape that frames the Maharaja’s palace.



HIGH ON ‘BLISS’

‘Namaskar’ I say, and press my hands together in a prayerful position.  I enter the Reception Lounge that is housed in the palace, and receive a warm, aromatic chai (tea). I cradle the porcelain cup, and muse on the sensual mountain-top chill that now unfolds into sun-kissed warmth.  In the adjacent Viceregal Tea Lounge, history in portraiture gazes down at me as I witness the Maharaja’s distinguished visitors - Lord Mountbatten, the last British Viceroy of India, and Mrs. Indira Gandhi, the former Prime Minister, and daughter of Jawaharlal Nehru. Their modern imprint remains on this ancient land.

The Maharaja’s friend and spiritual leader Ma Anandamayi had once blessed this palace and land. To her, he built and dedicated a special pavilion. Today it serves Ananda’s guests who seek her Abode for their personal space and meditations.

        Ananda’s view encompasses the holy town of Rishikesh where many sadhakas (students on a spiritual path) initiate their yatras (personal pilgrimages) towards the head-waters of the Ganges high in the Himalayas.

In tandem with chai, Ananda’s welcome includes a mala (garland) of rudraksha beads, believed to enhance self-love and possess bio-medical and curative properties. Here, in the cradle of sacred India, the goals are to cradle harmony and an inner sense of well-being throughout Ananda.



AYURVEDA AND THE SPA 

The ride from the Palace to Ananda’s Spa, and beyond to its Guest Residence, serpents through lush, flowering lawns. I see guests shuttled on electric-generated golf-carts - passengers seated on the left side, thank you – as petrol and diesel-fueled vehicles are prohibited. The Guest Residence houses panoramic views and generous porches that frame distant Rishikesh, the Ganges Valley, or the Palace. Along the way every employee greets every guest with a sincere ‘Namaskar.’ How could it be otherwise – there is such peace up here at Ananda.

I donned my spa togs - white cotton shalwar kameez (tunic and trousers) and I walk towards the Wellness Center for my first ayurvedic massage. Ayu (life) and veda (knowledge) - from the Vedic texts - together form India’s legendary science ayurveda. This ancient science approaches health as a balanced interplay of mind, body and spirit, underpinned by the five elements: ether, air, fire, water and earth. Ayurveda moves through Ananda: its ancient approach to wellness nurtured by a sensory external beauty that fosters a tranquil inner peace.

Treatments initiate with an ayurvedic assessment, though today, the doctor is absent due to a personal family matter. He requested that I reschedule our meeting on diet and doshas (bio-energetic principles). This delay did not interfere with continuing through the program: so I was accompanied to my first abhyanga massage, as one is always accompanied here to requested services.

Two masseuses awaited me. I moved onto a large wooden table in-laid with brass strips, after my feet were bathed in hot water, and my head was massaged with hot oil.

        Abhyanga massage therapy is a synchronized full body massage orchestrated between two practitioners who utilize herbal oils.  Their precision timing moves energy in as it moves toxins out.  This is a delightful dance-fest: now they shimmy my shoulders, limbo my lats, waltz my waist, tango the thighs and finally fox-trot my feet. Then they shuffle me into the shower, and leave me to choreograph my final whirl – solo. Abhyanga massage lasted an hour. It was an hour of utter bliss.



CULTURE IN THE AMPHITHEATER 

Called Lohri in the Punjab, and Pongal in the South, the date of January 13 marks a joyous festival that celebrates the end of winter. Add to winter’s demise the following: withdrawing of the southeastern monsoons, announcing increased daylight, and anticipating the fresh harvest with hopeful abundance, and it is celebrated with participants who dance around bonfires for transformation and regeneration. The symbol of firelight lauds the sun’s reappearance after a long winter. To insure a good harvest, participants throw sweets into its burning embers.

At Ananda, every guest is invited to participate in Lohri. The amphitheatre enjoys the moonlit natural light. And its backdrop frames musicians and dancers who welcome this astrological shift. Guests are encouraged to dance on stage with performers. Staff at Ananda participate as well. 

This cultural treat, and many others so tastefully celebrated on a regular basis here, enhance the evening’s festivities at Ananda, and further nurture one’s trek towards wellness. Not until I left Ananda and engaged with others in my world – and certainly with myself – did I fully appreciate the unique essence that was the gift of those days at Ananda in the Himalayas.



©Helen Kitti Smith, March 2006, Travel World News




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